This beautiful Victorian building has been welcoming guests for over 100 years. Perched above the town, it offers sweeping views across the waterfront and out towards Rock on the other side of the estuary. Originally, the hotel was built shortly after the railway arrived in 1899.
Celebrated with crowds and a brass band, the opening of the railway marked a change in fortunes for this busy fishing port. Holidaymakers began to arrive in droves, staying at what was then the very grand Metropole Hotel.
The town suffered a lull in visitors when the railway was finally closed in 1967, but Chef Rick Stein played his part in bringing them back when he opened his first restaurant here with his wife, Jill, in 1975. Now an internationally known brand, Stein’s ensured that Padstow became the foodie destination it is today.
The grand Victorian hotel, having become a little tired, was purchased by the Harbour Hotel group in 2018 and reopened the following year after a full refurbishment.
WHAT ARE THE ROOMS LIKE?
This loving restoration has seen the 58 rooms redecorated in a blue and white marine-themed style. Firmly rooted in Cornish chic, natural materials – such as wood, stone and wool – are used throughout. There is a complimentary decanter of gin to welcome the weary traveller, along with Nespresso machines and Bramley toiletries. For visitors who require accessible accommodation, a Garden Room – reached via the lift and featuring walk-in showers – is the best option.
BEST VIEWS?
Much of the Estuary View accommodation offers guests uninterrupted views across the water. Some of the Deluxe Estuary View rooms even have a private balcony, where you can watch the sun slowly dipping into the horizon as you sip your complimentary gin and tonic.
HOW’S THE FOOD?
The hotel’s newly relaunched restaurant, The Jetty, is overseen by Chef Patron Alex Aitken – formerly chef-owner at Le Poussin, which received a Michelin Star in 1995. Alex, who started out as a trawlerman – and therefore brings great knowledge and a passion for British fish to the table – has created a menu that focuses on local, seasonal ingredients.
The menu changes, but expect it to feature many fish dishes, from lime-cured brill served with watercress, heritage tomato, radish and broad
bean salad for starters, followed by oven-roasted wing of skate with sesame bok choy, mussels, coconut, turmeric cream and crispy seaweed.
Prices are quite high, at around £15 for a starter and just under £30 for a main, but the glorious views from the stunning floor-to-ceiling windows that run the length of the restaurant will make any meal a treat to remember.
LOCAL ACTIVITIES TO ENJOY
The disused railway line has now become the famous Camel Trail – a scenic cycling route that is well worth a visit. I cycled it in the pouring rain, and it was still a joy! The hotel can arrange bikes for guests. Also well worth a visit is the fabulous National Lobster Hatchery – a charity that focuses its efforts on ensuring the sustainability of lobster fishing in Cornwall and the Isles of Scilly. In exchange for a small donation, you can learn the fascinating story of this incredible creature, which holds a prime position in our food history and culture.
Padstow is still a working fishing port, so you can get up early and watch the boats pootle across the estuary and out to sea, before exploring the many culinary pleasures the town has to offer, from Rick Stein’s foodie emporium to Paul Ainsworth at No6.
As many coast-lovers will be aware, Padstow gets extremely busy with both national and international visitors in summer. But I love to visit in the winter months. From October to March, the town falls quiet and the streets empty out, but the beauty remains. Although the Harbour Hotel is above the town, it’s still only a five-minute stroll away from the heart of this lovely port, where you can enjoy the fresh sea air and the wonderful views at your leisure.
WHAT WILL IT COST?
Inland rooms start at £165 in spring, rising to £240 in the summer. Continental breakfast is included, with an additional charge for a cooked breakfast.
HOW DO I BOOK?
Call 01841 532486 or visit harbourhotels.co.uk/our-hotels/cornwall/harbour-hotel-padstow.
