Overlooking the gorgeous white sands and blue sea of Carbis Bay, MOR is a new restaurant from Tom Sellers – chef patron of two-Michelin-starred Restaurant Story – who brings his creative approach to one of Cornwall’s most spectacular coastal settings.
Words: Alex Fisher
Tom’s return to Carbis Bay follows the success of his 2019 pop-up, Story by the Sea, but now MOR is a permanent home for his vision. The name of the restaurant comes from the Cornish word for ‘sea’ – and, as that suggests, the restaurant’s ethos is built around the bounty of British seafood, with the catch of the day, local oysters, hand-dived scallops and Cornish crab and lobster sitting at the heart of the menu.
WHAT’S ON THE MENU?
This is constructed in a modern fashion, allowing diners to create the kind of evening they want. Less formal than a fine-dining tasting menu, it allows guests to mix and match small plates with sharing platters and create a feast that suits them. Small plates range from summer garden crudités with whipped cod’s roe (£8) to the sublime cured ‘one breath’ scallop carpaccio, served with Amalfi lemon, black lime and white soy (£32). The Cornish tuna tartare (£24) is outstanding, and for those who want to eat meat, the Cornwall Project lamb skewer (£13) with yoghurt and sumac is melt-in-the-mouth delicious.
Quality produce cooked on the charcoal grill is the mainstay of the dishes here, with the day-boat catch complemented by local shellfish, Philip Warren’s beef or Cornwall Project lamb, all served with dark green salad and potatoes – but my favourite dish was the oven-baked crisp seafood rice. The title belies the depth of flavour this dish offers. Perfect for sharing, it reminded me of long-gone days in Spain, watching the boats bring in the catch, then eating paella made with those ingredients on the beach, each spoonful unveiling another piece of perfectly cooked fish or shellfish. It is like a holiday in a pan, and a sunny one at that. Plenty for two people, so if you are on a budget, you could order a bottle of lovely house wine, the seafood rice (£70) and a green salad and have a fantastic feast at one of Cornwall’s best restaurants for not much more than a good pub supper.
To finish, if you have room, share a toasted rice soft serve with wasabi and puffed rice.
The restaurant also offers dairy-free, gluten-free and vegan menus.
HOW’S THE MOOD?
High-end food in a relaxed setting. On the sunny day I visited, the restaurant was busy with hotel guests, families who had spent the day on the beach, and young couples out for the evening. Everyone was warmly welcomed by the excellent staff.
The restaurant also has an intimate private dining room for up to 14 guests, centred around a handcrafted grand table. You can also enjoy the ONE MOR cocktail bar, which offers uninterrupted sea views and outstanding cocktails without committing to a full meal.
NEAREST BEACH?
You couldn’t be much closer to the beautiful sands of Carbis Bay. MOR sits above the beach at Carbis Bay Estate, overlooking the sweep of white sand and the clear blue sea beyond.
OPENING TIMES?
Lunch at the restaurant is served from Wednesday to Sunday from 12 noon to 2.30pm. Dinner is served Monday and Tuesday from 4.30pm to 9.30pm, and Wednesday to Sunday from 6pm to 9.30pm, extending to 10pm on Fridays and Saturdays. The ONE MOR cocktail bar is open daily from 12 noon.
HOW DO I BOOK?
To make a reservation, call 01736 795311 or book online at carbisbayhotel.co.uk.
