Words: Alex Fisher
Imagine if our restaurants were more like those in the Mediterranean, where communities came together to share food, music and good conversation. Where the ‘strangers’ on the table next to you introduced themselves, where local regulars welcomed visitors, shared their food tips, friends and families ate together, and local musicians and DJs – planned and spontaneous – added to the vibrant atmosphere. Well, this was exactly what I found at Counter Culture, the fabulous creation of chef-owner Ben Harrison.
Admittedly, I visited on a Saturday night, which might account for some of the celebratory mood, but still, it wasn’t quite what I was expecting to find down a side street in Newquay at 5pm on a wet and windy day.
Despite its relaxed atmosphere, Counter Culture is serious about the quality and style of its food and was awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand
in 2026, just a year after opening.
WHAT’S ON THE MENU?
Ben specialises in Spanish-inspired small plates using Cornwall’s finest ingredients. At the bar, walk-ins can enjoy pintxos – traditional Basque Country bar snacks served on cocktail sticks to accompany a drink. These range from chorizo and prune on toast to tempura skate and potato.
Those sitting down to eat can order from the full menu of small plates – a range of divinely delicious dishes made to be shared. My table enjoyed the stuffed Cornish squid served with black rice, bravas sauce and roast garlic aioli (£14), the Tresemple beef shin, with parsnip, milk bread and crispy onions (£16) and the Primrose Herd pork neck, with guindilla, white bean and sobrasada jus (£18), all of which had the authentic flavours of Northern Spain, while naming not just the region the key ingredients came from, but the actual local farm or herd, so the welfare and provenance of the produce is made really clear. We also loved the butternut squash with Treveador blue cheese dumplings, sage and toasted almonds (£13) – perfect as an accompaniment or a standalone vegetarian dish. For dessert, there was authentic crema Catalana (£10) and a more unusual Helford Blue, malt loaf, honey and caramelised apple dish (£11), both equally delicious.
To accompany your meal, there’s a great little selection of wines and cocktails, including some orange wines and some original twists on the classics, including a smoked-butter old fashioned and a hibiscus daiquiri (wines start from £6 a glass, cocktails from £10).
For those who are not drinking alcohol, Counter Culture makes its own cordials, which are served with soda for just £4. I recommend the sea buckthorn if they have it: not too sweet and a multilayered flavour – the perfect substitute for wine or beer with food.
HOW’S THE MOOD?
Lively and welcoming, stylish but super-relaxed. Food served at tables and also at bar stools. Lovely décor in warm terracotta and burnt orange, complemented by natural wood. An open kitchen, so you can see your food being made.
WHERE’S THE NEAREST BEACH?
Newquay’s beautiful sandy beaches are all minutes away, but Counter Culture is nearest to Towan Beach.
WHAT’S THE DAMAGE?
Snacks start from around £4, pintxos from £5, small plates mains from £11 and desserts from £10.
OPENING TIMES?
These may vary according to the season, but usually Wednesday to Saturday, 6-11pm.
HOW DO I BOOK?
For online bookings, visit counterculturenewquay.co.uk.
