Nancarrow Farm is reimagining sustainable dining through communal feasts and a deep connection to nature
INTERVIEW SUSIE ATKINSON Photography Adam Sargent, Steph Ssmond
The road to Nancarrow Farm winds gently inland from the Cornish coast, leaving behind the salt spray and seagulls of St Agnes, before dipping into a secluded valley near Truro. ‘Whilst our main focus is inland, we’re inspired by the sea constantly,’ says Steve Chamberlain, who runs the 100-acre organic farm with his wife Lucy. ‘The dunes, the biodiversity, the coastline, it all feeds into how we look after the land here. And when it comes to food, of course, fish and shellfish have their place at our table alongside what we grow and rear here.’
Nancarrow is not a new name in Cornwall – the family has farmed this land since 1782. But in 2011, with mounting pressures on traditional farming, Steve and Lucy decided to reimagine the family business.
‘We wanted to future-proof the farm,’ says Steve. ‘So we decided to create a space where people could come together; to eat, stay, and really experience the connection between land, food and community.’
That vision became a reality in 2014, when they opened the doors of their 18th-century oak barn for the first farm feast. It was rustic, candlelit and communal. Since then, Nancarrow has grown quietly but confidently into one of the region’s most celebrated food venues, offering weddings with wood-fired suppers, workshops on butchery and sourdough, seasonal feasts, and farmhouse rooms for overnight stays.
FOOD FROM THE HEART
At the heart of Nancarrow is its kitchen, led by head chef Jack Bristow. A former rising star at Paul Ainsworth at No6, Jack was keen to take the opportunity to return to a farming community. ‘I grew up in a farming family,’ he explains. ‘So when the opportunity came up to work somewhere I could literally see the produce growing or grazing outside the window – I jumped at it.’
Jack joined Nancarrow in 2015, and his arrival marked a shift in ambition. Feast nights and farm suppers became
a signature offering, with menus built around the seasons and the farm’s bounty. Meat comes from Nancarrow’s own sheep and Red Ruby cattle. Vegetables and herbs are pulled straight from the no-dig kitchen garden. Even the charcoal is made onsite using an Exeter Retort kiln – a nod to the farm’s commitment to sustainability and slow food.
SEA TO PLATE
The nearby coast also provides fish and seafood for the menu. ‘We use locally caught fish and shellfish when they’re in season and it fits the menu. Cornish mussels, hand-dived scallops, line-caught mackerel, all supplied by trusted suppliers who share our values,’ says Steve.
Nancarrow has always had a deep affinity with the coast. ‘The farm’s rhythms mirror the tides,’ says Steve. ‘Everything we do is seasonal, cyclical. And we have strong links to the dunes and coastal ecology through our work at Penhale Sands.’
The work at Penhale Sands includes a Cows, Meadows and Dune Safari, which is a guided event that takes guests from the farm to the nearby Penhale Nature Reserve. Here, Nancarrow’s herd of Red Ruby cows graze the coastal grasslands in a conservation partnership that supports biodiversity and restores rare habitats. ‘Grazing helps control species and encourages rare wildflowers, unique to the dunes,’ he explains. ‘And for our guests, it’s a powerful way to see the link between farming and the natural environment, including our coastal ecosystems.’
A SENSE OF COMMUNITY
It’s not just the food that sets Nancarrow apart; it’s also the sense of community. Shared feasts are central to the experience here, whether it’s 100 guests gathered under festoon lights on a summer evening or a winter supper in the warmth of the barn. ‘There’s something about long tables and good food that brings people together,’ says Steve. ‘It breaks down barriers. You might arrive not knowing anyone and leave with new friends.’
That philosophy is also reflected in the kitchen. The team is small, skilled and tight-knit and they aren’t just chefs –they’re also gardeners, butchers, charcoal makers and sometimes even calf midwives. ‘Everyone mucks in,’ says Steve. ‘It means we understand the whole journey of the food, from soil to plate.’
Nancarrow runs a reduced-service schedule (two to three evenings a week) to allow the team to be more embedded into the life of the farm, from harvesting veg to helping build new projects, such as the open kitchen which was added during lockdown, or the orchard of 400 fruit trees planted last year.
A PLACE TO STAY
While many people arrive at Nancarrow for a one-off feast, others may stay the night. The farm has beautiful on-site accommodation, from rustic-chic bedrooms in converted farm buildings to a shepherd’s hut, allowing guests to wake up to birdsong, explore the grounds and soak up the slower pace of farm life.
There’s also a year-round calendar of immersive experiences, including hands-on workshops on butchery, pasta making, bread baking and more. ‘People want to know where their food comes from. Here, they can see it, touch it, taste it and learn to cook it themselves.’
Nancarrow is becoming something of a local legend. Chefs including Paul Ainsworth and Simon Stallard visit, and its reputation has grown largely by word of mouth. ‘We’ve never shouted too loudly,’ admits Steve. ‘We’ve just focused on doing things properly – with care, with consistency, with respect for the land. And people respond to that.’
It’s a recipe that works. A decade after those first barn doors opened, Nancarrow remains rooted in its values: seasonal food, shared experiences, and a deep respect for the land, the coast and everything in between.
For more information on booking a meal or a stay at Nancarrow Farm, visit nancarrowfarm.co.uk.
