Known for family-friendly holidays and traditional weekend breaks, the Isle of Wight has always held a place in our hearts, but over the past few years, this easily accessible island has developed a new identity, says editor-in-chief Alex Fisher
With its Victorian history as a wellness resort, the Isle of Wight has sometimes felt like a place to step back in time, rather than somewhere that sets the pace – but lately, something has shifted. Between the chalky cliffs, open skies and long, sandy beaches, a different outlook has begun to take hold – a quiet invitation to tune into the natural world and enjoy the good things island living can offer.
Outside the bustling towns, the rise of slow living has become evident. Slomo Sauna has brought a Scandinavian-style ritual to multiple spots around the island. Wherever they pop up, mornings begin with sea swims or cold dips, followed by wood-fuelled heat and coffee in enamel mugs outdoors. In addition, a wave of fusion and high-end restaurants has been gently rewriting expectations, blending island produce with global flavours in relaxed, unfussy spaces that feel more Shoreditch-by-the-sea than traditional seaside fare.
At the same time, a handful of refurbished boutique hotels are giving weekend escapes a fresh edge, combining coastal views with pared-back interiors. Add to that yoga on the sand, small-scale wellness retreats and a growing focus on slowing down rather than filling every hour, and the island feels quietly magnetic.
WHERE TO STAY
After a short hour travelling on the Red Funnel ferry from Southampton, I head to the Albion in quiet Freshwater Bay on the west coast of the island. Having benefited from a £6 million refurbishment a couple of years ago, this boutique hotel now has the expansive terraces and floor-to-ceiling windows it needs to make the most of the stunning sea views. On my first night, I enjoy a meal at its restaurant, The Rock, named after the striking formations that rise from the sea just outside the hotel. Here, 90% of the ingredients come from island producers, and I try the goat’s cheese mousse followed by the local catch of the day as I watch the waves roll in and out. When the weather heats up, the restaurant opens out onto the terrace, with panoramic coastal views reaching the horizon. (Sea view rooms start at around £135 per night in low season and £160 in July; starters at The Rock cost from £10, mains from £20, albionhotel.co.uk).
If you prefer self-catering accommodation, book the pretty cottages in Bonchurch run by Ocean Blue Coastal Retreats. With elevated sea views and a lovely off-road walk down to the shore and along the beach to Ventnor, they are the perfect base for a family gathering (the cottages sleep from two to eight people – for seasonal prices and availability, visit oceanbluecoastalretreats.co.uk).
WHERE TO EAT
The restaurant not to be missed is the pan-Asian-inspired Smoking Lobster. With a seafront venue in beautiful Ventnor, which opened in 2017, and a larger version in Cowes, added in 2021, as well as delivery to those who are sailing through and staying in the marinas, there are plenty of options for sampling its stunning food. I head to the original restaurant – awarded two AA rosettes – where chef patron Giancarlo Giancovich runs the kitchen.
Here, with the sun sparkling on the sea just outside, I enjoy Omakase, the chef’s selection of dishes that day. Lightly battered tempura ebi prawns are served with a sweet chilli sauce, followed by divine, juicy seared scallops with pineapple and satay sauce. One unexpectedly outstanding dish was the Chinese turnip cake, with a crispy quail egg and sweet soy; make sure you order this when you visit.
Drawing on his heritage and the island’s local produce, GC, as he asks to be called, packs flavour into every single morsel he serves. For dessert, try the caramelised milk tart with spiced poached apple and lemongrass diplomat – it’s unbelievably good (Omakase – Chef’s Selection is £75 per person, or individual dishes start at around £8, smoking-lobster.co.uk).
In addition, if you stay at the Albion in the spring and summer season, you can pop over to The Hut at Colwell Bay for a leisurely lunch or a sunset soirée. Just a few minutes away, it offers some of the island’s finest seafood and a warm, celebratory atmosphere (thehutcolwell.co.uk).
You can also venture to Ryde and enjoy fine dining overlooking the sea at renowned chef Robert Thompson’s latest offering, RT Café Grill (for bookings and current prices, visit robertthompson.co.uk).
WHAT TO DO
Ex-Radio 1 DJ Rob da Bank and his wife Josie – the co-founders of Camp Bestival – have brought sauna culture to the island, where they now have a home. Find Slomo at Tapnell Farm (tapnellfarm.com/wellness-break) from October to April. Set next to the small lake – perfect for cold water swimming – the outdoor set-up offers saunas, hot tubs and cold baths.
I visit on a cloudy day and find a welcoming huddle of locals enjoying their weekly hot and cold water session, which costs around £20 per person.
During the high season, the saunas pop up in various locations, including The Point Bembridge, where, alongside the seaside saunas, you might find a mobile coffee cart, local food suppliers, a tent with yoga classes and a DJ playing tunes as the sun sets. To find out more, go to slomo.me and for further information and updates, you can follow @slomo_wellbeing and @thepointbembridge on Instagram.
If you want to top up your blue health experience while on the island, take a boat trip with Ventnor Bay Charters, a friendly, family-run boat business based on Ventnor Esplanade. Its 13m catamaran, Penelope, offers comfortable indoor and outdoor seating for up to 12 passengers. Choose from a one-hour coastal cruise to St Catherine’s Lighthouse (£30 adults, £25 children), a three-hour Needles trip (£100 adults, £95 children), or a four-hour round-island adventure (£120 per person). Private charters are also available year-round. Enjoy relaxed, scenic journeys with onboard refreshments and expert commentary (07930 161090, ventnorbaycharters.com).
Those who want to ensure that health and wellness are at the heart of their visit can book a beach yoga class or even a yoga retreat with islanders Jenny Stewart and Evelyn Joyce, who run Balance and Glo, a yoga and fitness business that offers drop-in classes throughout the year as well as residential retreats and one-off workshops. To find out more, visit balanceandglo.com.
The heart of the history of the Isle of Wight as a place for healing can be found at Ventnor Botanic Garden, and you shouldn’t visit the island without coming here; the gardens are stunning and exude the peace and calm that visitors throughout the years have been seeking.
Famed for its clean air and warm microclimate, Ventnor was a health and wellness resort in Victorian times. The Botanic Garden began life as part of the Royal National Hospital for Diseases of the Chest, built to treat patients with tuberculosis before the invention of antibiotics. In a nod to its past as a place for healing, as well as wandering through the 22-acre coastal site – marvelling at the array of rare plants and medicinal herbs, while red squirrels scamper between the trees – you can now add a yoga class, tai chi or a sound bath to your visit. To find out more about these daily events, go to botanic.co.uk/wellbeing.
In many ways, the island hasn’t reinvented itself; rather, it is returning to what it was once known as: a place to restore and reset, led by a connection to the sea and the land.
HOW TO GET HERE
Alex travelled with Red Funnel Ferries from Southampton. The car ferry takes one hour, but the Red Jet foot passenger ferry takes only 28 minutes.
VEHICLE FERRY
From £32.25 each way, for a day return with a car. From £29.95 per person, for up to four nights with a car (based on four people travelling). From £59.95 each way, for up to four nights with a car.
FOOT PASSENGER / VEHICLE FERRY
From £27.30 per person, for a period return (valid on Vehicle Ferry).
FOOT PASSENGER / RED JET FERRY
From £14 per person, for a Super Off Peak Day Return (valid on Red Jet or Vehicle Ferry). For more information, go to redfunnel.co.uk.
