coast editor-in-chief Alex Fisher spends a few days at the Scarlet hotel, an adults-only eco-retreat perched above Mawgan Porth Beach on the north Cornish coast

photo credit – the Scarlet hotel

WHY HERE?
Increasingly, scientists are exploring what they call blue health: the wellbeing benefits of spending time by the sea. Research from the University of Plymouth and the University of Exeter’s European Centre for Environment & Human Health has shown that regular exposure to coastal environments is linked with lower stress levels, improved mood and greater physical health. Breathing sea air, rich with naturally occurring negative ions, is thought to increase oxygen absorption and serotonin levels, while watching the movement of waves helps to steady the heart rate and quieten the mind.

photo credit – the Scarlet hotel

Few places capture this relationship between water and wellbeing quite like the Scarlet hotel. Built into the cliffs above Mawgan Porth, it is designed to connect you directly with the sea: every room looks out across the Atlantic, pathways lead through dune grass to the sand below and the spa extends outdoors with hot tubs and a cliff-edge sauna where guests can sit in the open air, breathing in the ocean breeze and listening to the surf.

What makes the Scarlet distinctive is how these modern insights into blue health meet ancient Ayurvedic principles. Here, the guiding idea is drawn from the 5,000-year-old Indian system of Ayurveda, which holds that health comes from balancing the body, mind and environment. 

The hotel translates these principles into practice through its design, spa and treatments. Its low profile, natural materials and large, sea-facing windows invite light and air inside, while the spa focuses on Ayurvedic-inspired therapies. The atmosphere throughout the place is calm and restorative rather than indulgent, and everything encourages rest and reconnection.

photo credit – the Scarlet hotel

SPA AND WELLNESS
The Scarlet’s spa is where its Ayurvedic philosophy is most clearly expressed. Facilities include an indoor pool, sauna and steam room, as well as an outdoor reed-filtered swimming pool, a cedar-wood sauna and hot tubs overlooking the panoramic seascape.

Treatments are guided by Ayurveda, with oils and techniques personalised to each guest. Options include full-body massages, herbal poultice therapies and gentle oil rituals. The therapists are outstanding, and the beautifully designed therapy rooms calm and peaceful, with a relaxation area full of hanging pods to float in afterwards. 

Don’t miss the complimentary morning wellbeing classes, such as yoga, mindfulness and chi gong, which can really enhance your stay. I had a fantastic chi gong class, which taught me exercises I am still doing months later. 

HOW’S THE LOCATION?
Mawgan Porth lies between Newquay and Padstow, yet feels worlds apart from both. The vast sandy beach below the hotel is a stunning backdrop to the setting and time can be spent just watching the waves, whatever the weather. From the hotel, guests can join the South West Coast Path: heading north leads to the dramatic sea stacks of Bedruthan Steps, while the route south takes you past Mawgan Porth, where there’s a surf-hire shop, beach café and pub, and then onto Watergate Bay, known for its surf schools, hotel and beachside restaurants.

photo credit – the Scarlet hotel

WHAT ELSE CAN I DO IN THE LOCAL AREA?
There’s plenty to do without needing to go far. Mawgan Porth Beach is perfect for surfing, paddleboarding and walks along the shore, with surf hire and lessons available just a few minutes’ walk from the hotel. In Mawgan Porth, you can browse the surf shop or enjoy lunch at the café overlooking the dunes. Just a few minutes’ drive inland, you’ll find The Japanese Garden in St Mawgan – perfect for a peaceful hour among koi ponds and bamboo groves. 

A 10-minute drive takes you to Newquay, Cornwall’s surf capital, which offers a livelier day out with its independent shops, cafés and stunning surf beaches, such as Fistral, where you can also find great places to eat, including chef Adam Handling’s Ugly Butterfly restaurant and bar at The Headland. 

Padstow, a 20-minute drive north, is a very popular harbour town, made famous by Rick Stein’s restaurant and cookery school, where you can learn to cook local seafood Stein style. You can also visit Paul Ainsworth’s acclaimed restaurant, No6. From Padstow, you can hire bikes and follow the Camel Trail along the estuary or take the ferry across the water to Rock.

photo credit – the Scarlet hotel

HOW’S THE FOOD?
The Scarlet’s restaurant sits high above the bay and has floor-to-ceiling windows that make the sea part of every meal. Breakfast is table service and features delicious homemade granola, seasonal fruit compotes, freshly baked pastries and organic porridge, alongside cooked dishes made with local
eggs and sourdough. 

In the evening, the menu changes regularly and showcases the best of Cornish produce. The vegetarian and plant-based dishes are exceptional, and you can tailor your meals to be as healthy or indulgent as you choose. 

WHAT WILL IT COST?
Rooms at the Scarlet start from around £230 per night per room for two adults, including breakfast and use of the spa. Treatments and wellness packages are extra. 

photo credit – the Scarlet hotel

HOW DO I BOOK?
Call 01637 861800 or visit scarlethotel.co.uk. The hotel has some great out-of-season offers, which is the best time to visit to avoid the crowds.