Editor-in-chief Alex Fisher explores this beautiful county in Wales, venturing beyond the capital Cardiff (Caerdydd) to discover some of the lesser-known gems in the surrounding coast and countryside
Set along the heritage-rich coastline of south Wales, the Vale of Glamorgan is a destination that pairs dramatic scenery with an increasingly celebrated food scene. Sheltered vineyards thrive in the milder climate, most notably at Llanerch Vineyard near Hensol, where award-winning Welsh wines are produced and served in its restaurant and hotel. Local producers champion everything from artisan cheeses to fresh seafood landed at nearby ports, and the region’s farmers’ markets showcase the best seasonal ingredients. From country pubs to Michelin star restaurants,
the area is brimming with great places to eat.
Beyond the plate, the Vale is defined by its coastline. The Glamorgan Heritage Coast stretches for around 14 miles between Aberthaw and Porthcawl, offering limestone cliffs, sandy coves and wide views across the Bristol Channel. Walkers can follow well-marked coastal paths past Nash Point Lighthouse and along dramatic headlands shaped by centuries of sea and wind. Sitting on the Welsh side of the Prince of Wales Bridge, it’s an easily accessible destination for a weekend away.
VIEWS FROM A VINEYARD
I arrive at the Llanerch Vineyard Hotel at dusk. The light is just beginning to fade and orange and pink hues colour the rows of vines I can see from my bedroom. Planted in the 1980s, this was one of the first vineyards to be established in Wales and the hotel, restaurant and wedding business has grown around the vines. The hotel was expanded and reopened in 2019 and the modern, spacious rooms offer an excellent, central location
to base your stay.
The onsite restaurant, Roots, offers a good place to eat without having to get back into the car after a long journey. Its seasonal menu is based on local ingredients and guides guests to the wines which complement their dishes. I begin with a glass of Llanerch’s own 2013 Vintage Sparkling White. With fresh, citrus tones balanced by a good minerality, it’s a great wine to start a meal or celebrate an occasion. My favourite dish was the whipped Pant-Ys-Gawn (a Welsh goat’s cheese) with pickled beetroot and fennel jam. For dessert, try the tangy passion fruit, mango and basil bavarois. A three-course meal is around £50 a head and stays at the hotel start at £140 for a double (llanerch.co.uk).
A GUIDED WALK
If you have a short time to get to know an area, I’d always recommend finding a local guide who can share their expert knowledge with you. Today,
my guide is Chris Jones, an ex-weatherman and TV presenter who now runs Vale Walks.
Passionate about the Welsh landscape, Chris shares fascinating history, folklore and wildlife stories with me as we walk from St Brides Major to the coast and back in a five-mile circular hike. As well as passing castle ruins and visiting the stunning lost Dunraven Gardens at Southerndown, we see extraordinary coastal rock formations and pass through pretty bluebell woods. Starting at just £25 per person, a walk with Chris is well worth the investment (chrisjones.cymru/guided-walks-and-tours).
GAVIN HENSON’S PUB
Having completed our walk, I’ve built up an appetite. Happily, we finished our journey outside The Fox pub, owned by Gavin Henson (of Welsh rugby fame). Gavin and his wife, Katie, renovated the venue and reopened it in 2019. Family-friendly, it now sits at the heart of this village community. Bustling with locals and visitors, it has a large separate dining room and offers both classic pub food, such as burgers and chips, as well as an à la carte menu.
I enjoyed a starter of scallops with celeriac, pancetta, hazelnuts and crispy leek (£11), followed by a hearty chicken supreme with a chorizo cassoulet, cavolo nero and aioli (£25). Portions are generous, so order with this in mind (thefox-stbridesmajor.co.uk).
BARRY ISLAND
Although time and the weather aren’t on my side this afternoon, I make the pilgrimage to Barry, like so many fans of Gavin & Stacey do. A traditional seaside resort, Barry and adjoining Barry Island have become a tourist destination again, due to this hugely popular TV series. If you find yourself here for lunch, head to goodshedsbarry.co.uk.
DINNER AT HOME
Born in Caerleon, Newport, James Sommerin is one of Wales’ most celebrated chefs, having held a Michelin star across three different restaurants over nearly 20 years. His current premises, Home, is situated in Penarth, to the west of Cardiff. Renowned for his dedication to the highest quality seasonal produce and precision in both presentation and flavour profiles, Home is nationally recognised as outstanding. If you’re only going to eat out
in one place in the Vale, eat here. Yes, an eight-course surprise tasting menu might be £145, but a four-course lunch is much less, at £70, and you could easily spend nearly that elsewhere on something you could make yourself, whereas what you will eat here you will not be able to recreate, and it will likely be one of the most memorable meals you’ve ever had.
Run with his family, including daughter Georgia, who has represented Wales twice on Great British Menu herself, Home is a truly unique dining experience. The small, very private dining space genuinely feels like someone’s – albeit sophisticated – home. Guests are personally welcomed into the space, with heavy curtains completely blocking out the town outside. Softly lit, the main focus is the open kitchen, allowing guests to watch every stage of the food preparation. Delightful ‘snacks’ start the tasting menu: a stunningly delicious chawanmushi (savoury Japanese-style custard which is so easy to get wrong) is followed by a tiny seaweed parcel of cod roe and dill, representing the closeness of the sea. The pea, parmesan and serrano ham starter presents layers of divine flavour, with the creamy peas being the perfect balance to the salty ham and cheese. Each dish flows perfectly to the next, so the menu itself is a completely balanced journey – a recipe – in its entirety. If you are looking for a foodie treat for your weekend in the Vale of Glamorgan, you will find it here (homeatpenarth.co.uk).
FLOATING SAUNA
I head back to Penarth to explore the picturesque marina. Here I meet Rory Heslop, who is opening Wales’ first floating sauna. A former ski champion, Rory’s sports background taught him the benefits of sauna therapies. Sauna Flô is planned to open in spring this year. The pretty wooden building
and cold baths sit just outside the Goose on the Loose restaurant and the marina’s facilities, which offer hot showers and even a bath! Here, swans glide by as the sun glints on the water, and I vow to return in the summer when little boats pootle up to the waterside bar nearby. Sessions in the sauna are around £20 per person (instagram.com/sauna.flo).
TOURING CLUB
This cool, super-friendly bistro with an open kitchen creates delicious little plates of food that you will keep coming back for. I often find arancini in the UK tasteless and disappointing, but those served here are outstanding. Scrumptious balls of perfectly seasoned cheesy rice with sage and onion; crisp on the outside, soft and warm inside (£9). It’s worth visiting just for these! The scallops with cauliflower and miso purée were succulent and full of flavour, but if the £28 price is too high for you, try the butternut squash with goat’s curd, walnut pesto and sage for £16. Here, they focus on a compact menu which they know they can deliver on point (thetouring.club).
PENARTH PIER
The Victorians’ love of the sea air for health benefits made Penarth a fashionable seaside resort in the 19th century. The pier was opened in 1895, and as well as serving as an extension of the promenade, it became a landing stage for the Bristol Channel steamers, which brought day-trippers from Cardiff, Bristol and beyond.
Although various buildings and pavilions have come and gone over the decades since, the pier remains and you can’t really visit the Vale of Glamorgan without taking a stroll along the Penarth Pier – something visitors have been doing for over a century.
For information to help you plan a trip to the Vale of Glamorgan, go to visitthevale.com and visitwales.com.
