For lovers of dark skies, wildlife and good food, this hidden pocket of the world on the Scottish coast offers a chance to unwind and reconnect with the natural world. Alex Fisher explores
It’s just past midnight and I am walking in the grounds of Glenapp Castle. Above my head I can see the Milky Way with clarity. Perhaps beyond that, Andromeda, the next galaxy. At 14.7 million trillion miles away, it’s extraordinary to think that it is possible to see this with the naked eye.
The quality of the night sky in this pocket of southwest Scotland has not gone unrecognised – the Galloway Forest Park is one of Scotland’s International Dark Sky Parks, awarded this status in recognition of the area’s minimal light pollution, due to the sparse population. The wider area
is also the largest UNESCO- recognised Biosphere in the UK and one of Scotland’s remaining wildernesses.
So, despite being the subject of an episode of the BBC’s popular series Amazing Hotels: Life Beyond the Lobby – presented by the brilliant
Monica Galetti and Rob Rinder – Glenapp Castle remains a sanctuary for those seeking a slow travel experience away from the crowds.
The Castle was designed in 1870 by celebrated architect David Bryce, who is known for his Scottish Baronial country houses. For many years, it
was the private home of the Inchcape family, but by the late 20th century, the estate had fallen into disrepair.
It was eventually sold in 1994, restored and opened as a luxury hotel. The current owners, Paul and Poppy Szkiler, have made the care of the buildings and its 110 acres their passion project and now offer a unique stay that combines five-star luxury with a deep-rooted connection to the natural wonders which surround it.
ISLAND EXPLORATION
Breakfast is served in the main hotel dining rooms and, as well as a traditional Scottish breakfast which might include haggis or Galloway smoked haddock, they offer a range of modern additions, such as fresh beetroot juice with a ginger shot and avocado on toast. After a hearty serving of scrambled eggs on sourdough, we set off to nearby Girvan Harbour to board the hotel’s own boat for a trip to Ailsa Craig, a volcanic island now famous for its seabirds.
The Castle’s Redbay Marine is a luxury RIB with a covered cabin and padded seats with seatbelts, which makes for a comfortable ride. We keep an eye out for the dolphins, basking sharks, porpoises and even minke whales that can be spotted during the journey from the mainland, but today it’s the seals we see first as we drop off the picnic before circumnavigating the island. Uninhabited since the lighthouses were automated in 1990, Ailsa Craig was once home to around 30 people who worked in its quarrying industry – its main export being the unique blue hone granite, which is still used to make curling stones for the World Curling Federation.
Today, the island is a haven for wildlife, and home to one of the largest gannet colonies in the world, with over 30,000 pairs nesting here each year. As we tour the island, the captain cuts the engine of the boat and we listen to the cacophony of bird cries from the cliff above, while we bob in the water. Guillemots, razorbills, kittiwakes, shags and black-backed gulls circle the boat, perhaps hoping we are fishing and might share some of our catch – and we even spot an Atlantic puffin, now relatively rare in the area.
PICNIC BY THE SEA
While we’ve been birdwatching, the Glenapp team have been setting up a picnic on the beach and we land on the island for a little tour of the ruins of the once-occupied houses.
A temporary dining space has been erected, complete with tablecloth, napkins and woolly blankets. Soon, curious seals gather in the water to watch
us eat the delicious selection of local cheeses, smoked fish and salads the hotel has prepared.
Such is the demand for exploration of the beautiful islands off the Ayrshire coast, the Castle now also runs overnight glamping sea safari stays, which include cruising around the islands of Jura, Islay, and Gigha, followed by a luxury glamping stay on Jura, where a private chef prepares delicious dishes from local seafood.
SEED-TO-SERVICE
We return to the mainland happily windswept but in awe of the natural world. After exploring the beautiful gardens, we are given a tour of the hotel’s walled kitchen gardens to see how the connection to nature extends to the table. Both gardeners and chef guide us through rows of fragrant lavender, rosemary and thyme, along with an abundance of fruits such as raspberries, strawberries and even apricots in the greenhouse, growing just steps away from the dining tables. The garden supplies an impressive 80% of the herbs used in the estate’s menus and it’s wonderful to see at first hand the food that we will eat later growing around the restaurant.
Situated in the Castle’s recently renovated Victorian Glasshouse, Glenapp’s newest restaurant, the Azalea, offers a more relaxed dining experience where guests and visitors can sit among the vines in the greenhouse and enjoy a gourmet meal which makes use of the garden produce. In a truly unique and enchanting setting, executive chef Peter Howarth serves beautiful dishes, such as baked local lobster with ginger, lime and coriander and
a divine Glenapp garden berry pavlova for dessert.
A CLOSE-UP-VIEW OF HIGHLAND COOS
The following day we leave the hotel and head to see the local Highland coos. Although farmed and not wild, this iconic and truly beautiful breed of coo (cow in English), with its long, shaggy coat and majestic horns, is the face of Scotland all around the world. Highly prized and carefully bred, it’s a rare treat to have an opportunity to get up close to these gentle giants.
We head off into the fields in the safari trailer, which is pulled by a tractor, where – within the safety of a people pen – there is the opportunity to feed and groom some of the younger cattle who choose to come up to the pen.
As we journey around the farm, we learn more about the sustainable practices put in place and how they fit with the philosophy of the Galloway and Southern Ayrshire UNESCO Biosphere which has been recognised internationally as a world-class environment for people and nature. As well
as supporting rare breeds and preserving rural skills, owners Neale and Janet McQuistin encourage native wildlife to thrive on the farm.
We follow the tour with a cream tea in the farm’s own kitchen, served on the family’s best crockery, handed down through generations. The lovely sandwiches, homemade scones and cakes – with buckets of tea – complete what has been a delightful experience. Short group tours start at around £24 per person, with extra charges for tours including cream teas and petting Highland coos (kitchencoosandewes.com). Private and exclusive tours can be booked through the Castle.
ARCHERY, FORAGING AND FISHING WITH A SEA EAGLE
Glenapp offers a wide range of experiences for guests, many of which tap into the rich legacy of the estate. As well as offering archery, axe-throwing and falconry against the backdrop of the Castle’s magnificent grounds, they can also arrange fishing, foraging and horse riding in the local area. For those who want to spend more time on the water, they have kayaking, coasteering, paddleboarding and a possibly unique activity – a sea eagle fishing trip! Prices range from £60 per guest for archery and £135 for a Horse Riding Beach Trek to £2,800 for up to eight people to spend a day on the boat fishing with a sea eagle.
FINE DINING
Our stay is completed by a final dinner at the Castle Dining Room, where the menu showcases the best of Scotland’s produce, including locally sourced game, seafood and organic vegetables from the estate. With beautiful dishes such as hen of the woods mushroom roasted with koji soy, smoked potato and baby leek and North Sea monkfish with cauliflower and Shetland mussels and coriander, dining here, overlooking the gardens is an unforgettable experience.
For a few days we have had the gift of being transported to another world, steeped in history and traditions, connected to both the land and sea.
WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT SOUTH AYRSHIRE
How to Get There Glenapp Castle is a 1.5-hour drive south of Glasgow Airport. Transport from the airport can be arranged for you by the Castle. The nearest train station is in Girvan, which is about 20 minutes away by car.
Prices for bed and breakfast start from £353 per night for a double room. To find more information and to book, go to glenappcastle.com.
