A bustling medieval market town coupled with one of the country’s most pristine sandy beaches offer residents of East Sussex’s Rye & Camber the best of both worlds, says Rebecca Pitcairn…
With its cobbled streets, medieval architecture and quaint assortment of independent shops, cafes and restaurants, you’re hard pushed to find coastal town as picturesque as Rye. I could be biased (I got married here, in the Georgian town hall) but going by the hordes of visitors, mostly vying for a picture of the famously steep and Instagrammable Mermaid Street (it’s one of the most photographed in the UK), I’m not wrong.
Rye is regularly listed on UK top places to live polls. Indeed, the iconic Mermaid Street, which is lined with well-preserved Tudor and Georgian buildings – including the 12th Century Mermaid Inn thought to be one of the country’s most haunted hotels – was recently named one of Britain’s best streets to live on by the Daily Mail.
While the deluge of tourists in summer might turn some people off, many would say it’s a small price to pay for a home steeped in history and kerb appeal.
Situated on the East Sussex coast, where the English Channel is at its narrowest, Rye was historically the first port of call for invaders sailing across from north west Europe and in the 13th century was regarded as the country’s most famous pirate port. Concerned for Rye’s safety, King Henry III ordered a castle to be built in the town in 1249, and a century later it was further fortified by the building of thick walls pierced by four gates. The castle and one of the gates, Landgate, remain today.
In recognition of Rye’s role in defending the south coast, it was officially made an ancient town of the Cinque Ports in 1336, along with neighbouring Winchelsea, which gave the town’s people privileges such as exemption from tax.
While Rye started life as a small coastal fishing community, almost surrounded by water, the sea now sits a couple of miles away from the town centre at Rye Harbour Nature Reserve. The golden dunes of Camber Sands are less than ten minutes’ drive away, where soft sand stretches for three miles leading all the way to the Kent border.
The beach is dotted with Grand Design-style properties – mostly holiday homes rented out in high season – but step back from the sand and there is a growing community of ‘new locals’ who call this quiet beach resort home.
Emma Fildes, founder of London and Sussex buying agency Brick Weaver, splits her time between Camber and London to suit her ever expanding property business.
“Camber offers a lovely quality of life by the seaside with great sprawling nature and is an idyllic place to bring up our three young children,” she says.
With properties in Rye’s centre and on a desolated stretch of beach at Jury’s Gap in Camber (when she’s staying in one, she rents out the other through her DOMstay concept domstay.com) award-winning architect Marta Nowicka, has the best of both worlds. “I love the fact that you can be in central London at three o’clock and on the beach at five o’clock – it’s complete and utter escapism,” she says.
WHERE TO BUY
Within the former medieval town walls is where you’ll find the characterful houses Rye is famous for and here prices are high, although there are hidden gems to be found if you want to own a piece of history on a budget, and aren’t bothered about multiple bedrooms or outside space.
You will find more bang for your buck along the A259 and A268 roads leading in and out of Rye and if you’re after more outdoor space then head to the hamlets on the outskirts of the town, such as Iden, Playden and Udimore.
Rye Harbour, some two miles downstream on the estuary of the River Rother, is less crowded by tourists and surrounded by a nature reserve. On the opposite side of the River Rother, is the road to Camber, where you’ll find a mixture of timber clad new homes, refurbished cottages, architect-designed eco-builds and caravan parks.
HOW MUCH?
According to RightMove, properties in Rye had an overall average selling price of £471,871 over the last year – the majority of those homes were terraced homes demanding an average price of £459,350. Semi-detached homes provide a significant saving at an average price of £399,521, while a detached home will set you back an average of £792,227.
However, if you’re after a decent-sized property on a cobbled street in the historic town centre, expect to pay over a million. Prices here continue to rise and have gone up by 11 per cent in the past 12 months.
TRAVEL LINKS
There is no direct train line into London but you can be at St Pancras in less than 90 minutes when changing at Ashford, which is around 20 minutes’ away. Hastings is also just 20 minutes by train.
The roads around Rye are twisty, which can make travel slow, but you can get to Ashford in around 30 minutes. Bus routes through the town run along the coast from Eastbourne to New Romney.
SCHOOLS
Rye Community Primary School and St Michael’s Church of England Primary in Playden are both rated Good by Ofsted and have a solid reputation. At secondary level, Rye College is also rated good.
Independent Schools include Vinehall School and Claremont, which both have an outdoor learning ethos. Frewen College, a special school in Northiam, focuses on children with dyslexia and dyspraxia.
REALITY CHECK
The deluge of tourists blocking Rye’s narrow pathways, particularly in the summer months, could become irksome. Parking is at a premium both in Rye and Camber, where parking charges have been increased recently to dissuade peak season visitors from travelling by car.
Shops are eclectic but some rather chintzy and more traditional opening times mean you’re unlikely to be able to buy a pint of milk at the drop of a hat. Many of the shops still close for lunch and on Sundays.
TIME OUT
From traditional tea rooms to modern coffee shops and even a hot chocolate bar (Knoops), cafe culture is thriving in Rye and there’s nothing better than a morning cuppa followed by a mooch around the many independent shops.
Don’t expect to find many household High Street names here (although there is a Boots and Waterstones, the latter still branded as The Rye Bookshop) but you will find stores selling everything from paper (there’s a shop, The Paper Place, dedicated to it) to pyjamas and everything in-between, as well as a host of art galleries.
Indeed, there’s a huge arts community here and the town’s annual International Jazz Festival in August and Arts Festival in September attract enthusiasts from all over. There’s also an independent cinema in Lion Street.
While the town may have seen an influx of new independent businesses opening in recent years, many have been in the town for decades, some even centuries. Rye Pottery, one of just a handful of production potteries left in the world that continues to produce everything by hand, was established here in the late 1700s and is now run by brother and sister Josh and Tabby. They are the third generation of the Cole family, who took over the business just after the Second World War. And then there’s the antique scene – you’ll find shops dotted about the town but concentrated along Cinque Porte Road, Wish Ward and Wish Street.
There’s old fashioned pubs in abundance here – The Mermaid is a must if you want to check out if ghosts really exist and The Ypres Castle Inn is a hidden gem tucked down some steps by the castle. For eclectic décor and great grub, head to The Globe Inn (book ahead as it gets busy), while The George on the High Street comfortably blends old and new within a 16th century former coaching inn that is adored by design lovers and foodies alike.
The town has a microbrewery – Rye Waterworks – and even a very cool winery, run by Ben Walgate, who previously made wine at nearby vineyard Tillingham but now makes wines under his own Walgate label. Talking of wine, on the outskirts of the town you’ll also find Oxney Organic Vineyard and Charles Palmer, which is just up the road from Camber Castle in Wincheslea.
Wellness opportunities abound and, aside from walking trails along the marshes and coastal paths, sea swimming and sailing and windsurfing available at Rye Watersports, the Rye Sports Centre, which is now run by the community, has been approved for a £650,000 upgrade.
STAY BEFORE YOU BUY
The Gallivant
Boho beach club meets the luxury of The Hamptons at The Gallivant, which sits just across from Camber’s golden sands. Good food and wellness is at the heart of every stay here with breakfast, morning yoga classes and English wine served at 5pm included in the price.
Some rooms lead out onto a pretty coastal garden, where you’ll find a spa cabin offering Bamford treatments. They also run wild swimming events, foraging classes and local winery visits. It’s adult only but dog friendly. Prices from £197 per night. thegallivant.co.uk
The George
You can’t get more centrally located that The George, now painted a warm shade of terracotta after being renovated following a fire which gutted the building in 2019.
The Grade II listed bolt-hole dates from 1575 and has an enviable heritage, with an original Georgian ballroom, Elizabethan galley beams, and an antique wig store among its many quirks. Its relaxed and informal atmosphere makes this place a real home from home. Prices from £125 per night. thegeorgeinrye.com
WHAT YOU CAN GET FOR YOUR MONEY
Here are some of our favourite Rye and Camber properties for sale:
IN THE THICK OF IT (£1,500,000)
Live on one of the UK’s most picturesque streets in The House with the Secret Garden, right opposite The historic Mermaid Inn. This 15th century Grade II listed house was originally part of the adjoining Lamb House, owned by the novelist Henry James and subsequently by E F Benson, who frequently mentions the property’s secret walled garden in his Mapp & Lucia novels. The four-bedroom house, which has an 18th century facade, has many period features across its three floors including an exposed Tudor brick wall in the kitchen and heavy timbering.
phillipsandstubbs.co.uk/property-details/100628009149/-/-/rye-17
AN ARCHITECT’S HOME (£995,000)
Another property situated in the Rye Conservation Area, this three-bedroom cottage overlooks the parish church. The Grade II listed 16th century house is jettied to the front and has many period features including a large inglenook fireplace and exposed beams. To the rear, there is a fabulous garden which includes a Japanese studio/tea room with balcony designed in the 1970s by the then owner, architect Frederick MacManus OBE, to take advantage of the fine views over the River Rother to the sea beyond. phillipsandstubbs.co.uk/property-details/100628007131/-/-/rye-23
SECLUDED BEACH BUNGALOW (£525,000)
Adjacent to the vast stretch of beach at Camber Sands but set back from the coastal road, this detached single storey property is currently run as a successful and established holiday let. The two-bedroom home has a double aspect living room with woodburning stove and a conservatory/dining room, which overlooks the water at Jury’s Gap, and a boat house style studio with views over neighbouring farmland. phillipsandstubbs.co.uk/property-details/100628008392/-/-/jurys-gap
RIVER VIEWS (£375,000)
Situated in the Rock Channel area of Rye, 17 The Boathouse is located in an early 1990s purpose-built development of 18 homes and boasts stunning views over the River Brede and fields beyond. The two-bedroom ground floor apartment has a wraparound terrace open plan living accommodation positioned to take advantage of the views of the river and march towards Rye Harbour. The property has allocated parking and space within a cycle store and mooring is available by separate arrangement. phillipsandstubbs.co.uk/property-details/100628008632/-/-/rye-30
