Alex Fisher eats at Silo, Brighton
WHET MY APPETITE
Brilliant, innovative and eco-chic, Silo operates a zero-waste policy by dealing directly with farmers, recycling and compositing; an amazing achievement by anyone’s standards. Happily, the restaurant doesn’t have to trade on its eco-credentials as the food, both vegetarian and meat, is excellent. They make their own flour, brew their own drinks, churn their own butter and forage for ingredients. DIY culture at its best.
WHAT’S ON THE MENU?
Three-course set menus are usually offered as plant, fish and meat, although you can mix and match courses. Starters included cured gurnard, oyster & broccoli and abalone mushrooms, celeriac & whey. Sometimes the simple descriptions belied the complex taste and texture sensations that arrived at the table; we loved the celeriac and Montgomery cheddar and our dessert of Grinstead kiwis, cascara and cacao nibs was sublime.
HOW’S THE MOOD?
Slick, recycled wood and stainless steel makes a surprisingly comfortable setting. The friendly waiting staff are well-versed in the philosophy of the restaurant and the unusual dishes and ingredients offered.
CAN I SEE THE SEA?
Silo is off the North Laine area – a five-minute walk to the sea and the pier.
WHAT’S THE DAMAGE?
A three-course set menu is around £26pp. Otherwise starters are around £6 and mains around £12. Additional wine pairing ranges from £34 down to £16pp.
Mon-Fri: Brunch 11am-3pm, Mon-Fri, 10am- 3.30pm Sat-Sun. Dinner 6pm- 9.30pm.
Silo, 39 Upper Gardner Street, Brighton BN1 4AN (01273 674259, www.silobrighton.com)
For more coastal restaurant reviews pick up this month's issue of Coast magazine