Word by Alex Fisher

WHET MY APPETITE. Sometimes overlooked by those new to the Cornish holiday scene, Bude is a bustling town on the north coast, with sandy, surfing beaches and a tidal pool. Just above Summerleaze Beach, with its beach huts and Atlantic views, most visitors know long-standing eateries such as Life’s a Beach, where you can enjoy a pint of prawns and a crusty baguette with a cold glass of wine, and The Beach at Bude, a relaxed boutique hotel that offers delicious homemade pizza to eat on the terrace as the sun sets. But fewer are aware of an excellent fine-dining restaurant a few doors down, despite it being open since 2010. Sea Fever focuses on the best local seafood, creating inventive, seasonal dishes you won’t find elsewhere in the county.

WHAT’S ON THE MENU? Our meal started with warm, homemade bread with a whipped seaweed butter. This was followed by several fantastic starters. We loved the squid bhaji, which was served with the mackerel tandoori, and the green gazpacho, which surrounded the crab and fried oyster, was divine; fresh and vibrant in colour and taste. Continuing the Indian spice theme, the hake with squid, carrot, coriander and sesame was delicious and perfectly cooked. We also ventured outside the fish theme and tried the steak, reasonably priced at £26, and served with king oyster mushrooms, shallots and truffle butter, and were not disappointed. The meat was tender and flavourful, and no steak knife was necessary! A side of Cornish greens complemented both dishes perfectly. For dessert there are homemade ice creams and sorbets, including a great rhubarb sorbet, which we enjoyed with a selection of Cornish cheese and a glass of Ramos Pinto 10-year-old Tawny Port.

Crab and Oyster green gazpacho

Crab and Oyster green gazpacho

HOW’S THE MOOD? Welcoming and low key with a quiet focus on the food. Sea Fever is on the ground floor of the Atlantic Hotel on Summerleaze Crescent.
Nearest Beach? Summerleaze Beach is just a five-minute stroll away.

WHAT’S THE DAMAGE? Starters are from around £9, mains from £22 and desserts from £6. Side dishes from £4.

OPENING TIMES? Dinner only, Tues-Sat, 6pm-8.30pm. Book by calling 01288 352451 or visit sea-fever.co.uk.

If you’re searching for a staycation hotspot for your Cornish break, try these top Cornwall hotels.