Channel Island hopping: Discover Guernsey, Sark and Alderney

Enjoy quiet beaches, unique beauty and a sleepy charm when escaping to the Channel Islands for a weekend away

Words ALEX FISHER

One thing you must do when you visit the Channel Islands is to take a boat trip to Sark. When you get there, climb aboard one of the horse-drawn carriages (there are no cars on the island) that wait for visitors at the top of the hill and head for Little Sark. Connected to Big Sark by La Coupée, a 3m-wide causeway 80m above the sea, this narrow ridge offers dramatic views down into the ocean below. Pre-book a table at La Sablonnerie and order lobster. If the weather is good, sit in the sheltered garden and enjoy one of the best meals you will eat in your life. With the added bonus of owner Elizabeth Perrée as your hostess, you will probably spend the rest of the day there, and it will be a day you will remember forever.

Although referred to as the Channel Islands, this archipelago in the English Channel is actually two separate states, neither of which are part of the EU or the UK, although they are British dependencies. As the only British land occupied during WWII, the islands have their own distinct history, which contributes to their unique national character and outlook. The Bailiwick of Guernsey includes Guernsey, Alderney, Sark and Herm and has different laws, currency and stamps to the Bailiwick of Jersey. The rivalry between the two regions runs deep, and will undoubtedly emerge through tour guides or locals at some point as they share their history. Fiercely independent, even the smaller islands retain an individual identity, with both Sark and Alderney having a separate parliament to that of Guernsey.

ARRIVAL IN GUERNSEY
It takes about an hour to fly from Gatwick to Guernsey, and, although it’s one of the larger islands with a population of over 60,000 – compared to Sark’s 500 – the culture does feel different to the British mainland. Narrow country lanes peppered with ‘veg on the hedge’ and honesty boxes weave between the bigger towns, and although everyone speaks English, the influence of nearby France is palpable in the food, road names and residents. The low taxation, lack of capital gains, inheritance tax or VAT has made it a haven for the wealthy and, with low crime figures and unemployment at just one per cent, there’s an air of comfort and ease here. A great place to stay is the elegant Bella Luce in St Martins. This family-run hotel is set in a Norman Manor House a few minutes’ drive from the sea, the airport and St Peter Port, where you can catch a boat to Sark or Herm. If you want to eat nearby, new restaurant Octopus in St Peter Port has stunning sea views in a stylish setting. But the food steals the show – try a bowl of perfect bouillabaisse with freshly baked bread. However, if you want to hide away and relax, the hotel has its own restaurant, spa, outdoor pool and gin distillery.

Read next 48 hours in Guernsey

STAYING ON SARK
While staying at the Bella Luce, take a day trip to Sark from St Peter Port. The ferry runs throughout the year, but is more frequent and reliable from spring to autumn. If you have the time, spend a few nights here and really get to know this interesting island. Car-free and the first location in Europe to be awarded Dark Sky Status by the International Dark Sky Association, you can feel an elemental rawness beneath your feet as soon as you step on Sark that is becoming hard to find in the modern world. Would-be stargazers can use the new observatory, which, when I visited, was manned by the island’s president; in an island community of 500, everyone has at least two jobs! Stay at the Stocks Hotel, which has a restaurant and an outdoor pool. Here, lemons were growing outside in the autumn, so, when they tell you it is a sun-trap, they are telling the truth. Hotel manager and owner Paul Armorgie is happy to help arrange a range of activities for guests, from bike hire and fishing to yoga, kayaking and coasteering. La Seigneurie Gardens are well worth a visit, not just for their floral beauty, but to discover the fascinating story of the island’s political history which unfolded on these grounds.

HISTORIC ALDERNEY
The second most populated island in the Bailiwick of Guernsey, Alderney offers a completely different experience. You can travel there by boat or a small plane from Guernsey, which takes 20 minutes. You’ll find a welcoming community, in sharp contrast with the endless fortifications that can be seen in almost every view across the island. Just eight miles from France, Alderney has been considered militarily strategic for thousands of years and, as well as the WWII guns and tunnels, there are extraordinary Victorian forts built on outcrops of rocks, some of which have been turned into unusual holiday accommodation. In addition, you can see one of the best preserved Roman military buildings in the world, which is more than 2,000 years old. Many visitors come for the historic tours of the forts, and to learn about the German occupation. In contrast to Guernsey, most of Alderney’s population were evacuated before the invasion – bar a handful of people, including one fisherman’s family, whose wife refused to leave as her husband was out on his boat. However, although residents escaped the Nazis, the island became home to their only concentration camps on British soil, and it is estimated that 700 prisoners died here.

Find out more about a weekend break in Alderney

Memorials pepper the island as stark reminders of its history, and yet, the overwhelming feeling is one of warmth and friendliness from a population of around 2,000. ‘There is no concept of strangers on Alderney,’ says Annabel Finding from Alderney Tours. ‘Everybody knows everybody. By name. We have a very positive attitude to each other, no one is rude. Even when marriages break down we don’t fall out with each other. We can’t; we all have to live together. You always say hello and you wave at every car that passes.’

Here, boats are more important than cars, which tend to be old and uncared for, and it’s on the water that you’ll find much of the abundant wildlife that also attracts visitors. From bottle-nosed dolphins, seals and puffins, to more than 1,000 wildflowers and a gannet colony of more than 9,000 birds, walking and nature-watching is a huge draw. If you visit the Alderney Wildlife Trust shop in St Anne's, the staff will be able to guide you to the best spots for viewing the current wildlife spectaculars. A little further down the road you’ll find The Georgian House, where you can take a leisurely lunch in their beautiful garden, and sample the best local seafood that the island has to offer and stay the night. It’s the perfect way to end a fascinating journey around some of our extraordinary islands.

NEED TO KNOW

GUERNSEY
Bella Luce Hotel (01481 238764, bellalucehotel.com)
Octopus (01481 722400, octopusgsy.co.uk)

SARK
La Sablonnerie Hotel and Restaurant (01481 832061, sablonneriesark.com)
Stocks Hotel (01481 832001, stockshotel.com)
La Seigneurie Gardens (01481 832208, laseigneuriegardens.com)
The passenger ferry from Guernsey to Sark is with the Isle of Sark Shipping Company (01481 724059, sarkshipping.gg)
For more information, go to sark.co.uk