New to Brighton Seafront, this rather glamorous grill restaurant focuses on high-quality local produce. Executive Chef Andrew MacKenzie – who has worked at Brighton’s best, including Drakes, The Salt Room and the local outpost of Soho House – serves a ‘Fire and Ice’ menu.
Starters, such as scallop cured in yuzu and cucumber, or beetroot carpaccio, pickled radish and coconut dressing, come raw ‘on ice’. The ‘Fire’ mains are cooked ‘over flame’ – think 45-day salt-aged steaks or local skate or lobster from the Mibrasa grill.
WHAT’S ON THE MENU?
We began with cocktails, including a punchy seaside martini and classic margarita. Then, from the small plates menu, came a sublime wood-fired scallop with cauliflower and brown butter. This incredible shellfish is notoriously easy to over- or undercook, but this was perfect: seared on the outside and buttery on the inside. Pig cheeks with carrots and five spice had just the right amount of piquancy, and the meat melted in the mouth. Andrew favours fresh catches from local boats, so we chose the fish of the day – lemon sole served with samphire – and the half wood-fired lobster with parsley and dill butter, for our mains. The fish was filleted at our table by our excellent waitress, who also recommended the ideal wine to accompany our meal: a light and fresh Vinho Verde. We finished with a dramatic Mirabelle plum soufflé and ripple ice cream.
HOW’S THE MOOD?
Lively and luxurious. Chic décor with dark tones and natural materials combines with excellent, knowledgeable service. The two busy rooms are full of animated conversations and interesting art. Dogs aren’t allowed but people with pooches can sample some of the menu upstairs, in the bar and lounge of Hotel No. 124.
NEAREST BEACH?
Brighton’s pebble beach and the famous ruins of the West Pier are just across the road.
PRICES
Starters begin at £12, mains from £18 and desserts from £11, with sides from £6.
OPENING TIMES
Open for Lunch: Friday and Saturday 12-3:30 pm; Dinner: Monday to Saturday 5-9 pm; Sunday open 12-7.30 pm.
HOW TO BOOK
Pearly Cow, 123 Kings Road, Brighton, BN1 2FY.
To book, call 0330 055 4531 or visit pearlycow.co.uk/pearly-cow-brighton.
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