Alex Fisher
WHAT’S THE BUZZ?
Despite only opening in July 2022, Updown Farmhouse has already been added to the Michelin Guide. Run by Head Chef Oli Brown – founder of the much-loved Duck Duck Goose in Brixton – and partner Ruth Leigh – daughter of celebrated chef and restaurateur Rowley Leigh – the restaurant with rooms serves superb, locally-sourced produce in a beautiful, bucolic setting.
Set in a 17th century farmhouse, which the couple have been lovingly restoring over the past few years, Updown offers a weekend escape just a couple of miles from the beaches of Deal in Kent.
WHAT’S ON THE MENU?
There is a focus on seasonal, local and European produce and the menu changes frequently. With a heavy Italian influence, expect to see dishes like roast artichokes with cipollini onions, lentils and agretti with salsa dragoncello, and minestrone with borlotti beans, swiss chard, pumpkin and ricotta salata. The focus is on flavour and the style rustic; everything is cooked over wood in the open kitchen. They only recently added a roof to the beautiful dining area, but it still retains an outdoorsy, courtyard feel, full of plants and surrounded by the much-loved gardens.
The drinks menu is interesting and unusual, and I enjoyed the Col Fondo Agricolo, Malibran 2022 Veneto (£10 a glass). This unique sparkling wine has much more depth than most, due to the natural, traditional methods used in its production, leaving it with an almost cloudy appearance.
To start my meal, I had the minestrone, which was rich and delicious – but the star of the show was the main: a succulent dish of pork chops with chickpeas, cime di rapa and aioli. Although simple-sounding, the aioli brought a creamy flavour to dish, tying all the elements together, and the combination made a meal that I would travel across the country to eat again.
The service here is outstanding, with knowledgeable and friendly folk offering to guide you through any unusual elements on the menu. There is a relaxed, but almost celebratory atmosphere in the dining area on a Saturday night. It’s busy, bustling and full of laughter and clinking glasses, making it a great place for a special celebration. For me, I would much rather head here for a special weekend, than jump on a plane and head overseas. Although I was only here for one night, I felt like I’d travelled elsewhere and genuinely enjoyed a holiday, without all the hassle of getting there.
WHAT ARE THE ROOMS LIKE?
New for 2025 is the renovated stable block, which now adds four more rooms to the current two cottages in the grounds and four rooms in the main house. Two rooms in The Stables are linked, making them ideal for families or friends staying together, with space for a cot and the option of a twin. All of the rooms in The Stables have floor-to-ceiling glass doors, which open out onto their own terrace, allowing direct access to the gardens and woodland.
Founders Ruth and Oli say, ‘We’ve been slowly working on restoring Updown Farmhouse over the past few years and the launch of The Stables will allow us to welcome even more guests to enjoy the magic of Updown. With such a rich history as a working farm, we felt it was only natural to restore The Stables to its former glory. We’re looking forward to being able to make even more use of the beautiful grounds next year with the development of a swimming pool and spa facilities.’
WHERE’S THE NEAREST BEACH?
Head to picturesque Deal, which is just five minutes’ drive down the road, to find long stretches of pebble beaches, an extraordinary 300m pier built in the 1950s and cool shops and cafés to explore.
WHAT DOES IT COST?
Prices for B&B start at around £190 for a night in The Stables and £200 a night in the main house. Look out for seasonal offers for DB&B as these are great value and you will certainly want to eat in the restaurant.
HOW DO I BOOK?
Call 07842 244192 or visit updownfarmhouse.com.
