Ross Geach’s Padstow Kitchen Garden is a love letter to Cornwall, where farm-fresh feasts meet the timeless rhythm of the sea
Words Susie Atkinson | Photography Frankie Thomas
Ross Geach stands in the yard of Trerethern Farm, overlooking the north Cornish coast. ‘Every day, I get to look at this view,’ he says proudly. But for Ross, the farm is far more than just beautiful countryside – it’s a living legacy. For more than 150 years and seven generations, his family has worked this soil, creating a story deeply rooted in the traditions of farming, food and the joy and challenges of living and working by the sea.
Today, Ross – a former head chef who spent more than 10 years developing his skills with Rick Stein – weaves the past and future together on the farm, transforming it into a vibrant hub of produce, feasting, and community events that celebrates everything Cornwall has to offer.
From working on the land with his father to creating unforgettable long-table feasts championing zero food miles, Ross has spent the last 18 years bringing new life to his family’s farm – all the while staying firmly connected to the sea and the coastal lifestyle that has shaped him.
‘When I was a kid, we were always down at the beach,’ he recalls. ‘Fishing, cliff jumping, pretending to surf… it was all about the water. It wasn’t just a part of life – it was life.’
His aunt taught him to fish in the estuary, and his father and grandfather taught him to swim. ‘We were always in or on the water,’ he says. ‘And when we weren’t, we were staring at it, talking about it, or planning to get back in it.’
Even today, the sea is what pulls Ross out of bed most mornings. ‘I try to swim every day, if I have time. A quick dip in the estuary sets me up for the day – even in winter,’ he explains. ‘I’ll dive in and splash around with my dog, then come out feeling like a new person. It’s as though
the sea resets you.’
He also enjoys sharing the coastal lifestyle with his daughters. ‘I love seeing my daughters, Florence and Rosa, embrace the sea the way I did. I took Rosa fishing the other day and taught her how to cast. I also told her about Auntie, who used to annoy all the blokes by catching more fish than they did!’
THE FOOD JOURNEY
Knowing how tough farming life can be, Ross’s father and grandfather encouraged him to pursue a different career. So, when he was 15, Ross started washing dishes at the nearby Rick Stein’s Café at the weekends. This experience fuelled his passion for food and, after a few years of study at catering college, he returned to Stein’s to work his way up through the ranks, eventually becoming a head chef.
Ross’s time as a chef took him out of Cornwall and around the world. ‘I’d travel to places like South America and Asia, learning about different cuisines,’ he recalls. But one day, sitting on a beach in Bali, Ross suddenly thought, ‘I don’t think I want to be a chef any more.’
He recalls, ‘We used to joke about how the fishermen and producers always showed up sun-kissed and happy, while all the chefs stayed pale in the kitchen – but what started out as a joke had an impact on me. Eventually,I realised I wanted to be back in the fields again, not inside a kitchen all day.’
Ross’s decade in the profession gave him an excellent understanding of the kind of produce chefs need and the quality they expect. ‘The standards at Rick Stein’s were so high, it inspired me to return to my family farm and see if I could grow and sell the produce I knew chefs wanted.’ And so began Padstow Kitchen Garden.
‘To begin with, it was just a sideline, something I did in addition to working as a chef,’ says Ross, who started out by restoring the farm’s walled garden with his grandfather, and selling small amounts of produce to local restaurants in his spare time. ‘As a chef, I had an edge – I knew what chefs wanted: baby leeks, unusual salad leaves, crops you couldn’t get anywhere else.’
A FAMILY AFFAIR
Today, Padstow Kitchen Garden spans seven acres and supplies Cornwall’s top restaurants. Ross credits much of his success to his late grandfather, who passed down old-school farming techniques, such as crop rotation and the secrets of maintaining good soil health. His father, Ron, also played an important role in building the business and remains key to it. ‘He’s still out driving the tractor, filling tubs of kale, and helping wherever he’s needed – he’s 70 next year. But this is what’s he’s done every morning of his life.’
Equally vital is Ross’s mother, Sonia, 69, who keeps everything running smoothly. ‘We always call Mum “The Boss”!’ Ross laughs. ‘Whether it’s planning the next event or deciding how many sauces we need to prep, the decisions all have to be run by her.’
In 2015, Ross decided to marry his cooking expertise and farming skills by hosting feasts in his polytunnel on the farm. ‘I wanted to make use of all the local produce we could harvest or catch just hours before it was served,’ he says. ‘The menu is shaped by what’s growing and what the sea gives us. If the cauliflowers aren’t great, they’re off the menu. If we’ve got an abundance of fish, that’s what we use.’
DIVERSIFICATION IS KEY
The feasts were an immediate success – the first sold out within hours and they remain popular 10 years later. The events take place in open fields overlooking the estuary, in a polytunnel with diners surrounded by growing produce, or, on cooler evenings, among huge hay bales in the barn.
Cooking over fire is another cornerstone of Ross’s philosophy, and his Big Green Egg workshops – using a Japanese-inspired ceramic barbecue oven – are in demand. ‘Cooking outside has this primal appeal,’ he says.
Looking ahead, Ross is determined to ensure that Trerethern Farm remains a thriving part of the Cornish coast for generations to come. His latest project – a series of shepherd’s huts offering overnight stays on the farm – will give visitors the chance to experience the magic of the farm-to-fork life at first hand. ‘To make a living as a farmer these days, you need to diversify,’ he says. ‘Farming is tough. The sea might be constant, but everything else isn’t – weather, markets, pests. You have to adapt.’
For Ross, that need for adaptability is part of the beauty of life by the sea. ‘The coast teaches you resilience,’ he explains. ‘It shows you that change is inevitable, but also that every tide brings something new.’
Farm-to-Fork feasting. Long-table feasts at Trerethern Farm are held every six weeks. Menus are seasonal and celebrate zero food miles – tickets start at £40 per person. Ross also runs Big Green Egg workshops, teaching outdoor cooking skills for the ceramic barbecue oven.
The shepherd’s huts are due to launch this Easter. For information and recipes, and to join the mailing list for news and details of forthcoming feasts and courses, visit padstowkitchengarden.co.uk.
