From wild beaches and winding cliff paths to ancient sites and world-class surf, this corner of Wales offers unforgettable natural beauty and great dining experiences. Coast editor-in-chief Alex Fisher explores
With a coastline that stretches over 186 miles, it’s impossible to mention all that is wonderful about this beautiful county in one feature, but I hope those who follow this little guide will get a taste for everything that Pembrokeshire has to offer and plan to return.
As well as being home to one of the National Trust’s most stunning coastal parks, the sea and surrounding islands are a haven for marine life. The nutrient-rich waters support Atlantic grey seals, bottlenose dolphins, and porpoises, sometimes visible from the headlands. Seabirds, including puffins and razorbills, nest on offshore islands like Skomer and Ramsey, and occasionally, you might even see the odd whale or leatherback turtle.
Carved by time and tide, there are prehistoric sites, Iron Age forts, medieval churches and castles to explore along the coastline. Long stretches of sandy beaches, dramatically framed by rocks and cliffs, provide great walking, swimming and surfing experiences, and you can follow a sea dip with a sauna on the beach in one of the movable pop-ups that have appeared over the past few years.
Once known for its lamb, the local food scene has exploded and a huge value is placed on ethically sourcing fish and other seafood, served in an array of beachside cafés and fine-dining restaurants. Shellfish is sustainably harvested by brilliant companies such as the regenerative ocean farm Câr-y-Môr, and the region is also now home to an excellent vineyard producing outstanding sparkling wine.
ARRIVAL
I’m going car-free and travelling by rail from Paddington, London. After a quick change at Swansea, I hop on the train to Narberth. From here, it’s just a 10-minute taxi ride to Grove of Narberth, where I’ll be based for my stay. This 17th-century country house fell into disrepair and became uninhabitable until it was restored and opened as a luxury hotel in 2007. Now it houses two restaurants, and 25 rooms and suites, along with a lake and kitchen gardens, all set in stunning grounds.
BIKE HIRE
There’s enough time to explore the area before an early supper so I head off on one of the hotel’s electric hybrid bikes. These are perfect for making light work of the surrounding hilly woodland and country paths. The bikes have a 60km range and if you have the whole day, take the coastal route to Tenby. Hire costs from £45 to £65, depending on the season, helmet included (grovenarberth.co.uk/experiences-and-escapes).
RELAXED SUPPER
The Artisan Rooms at Grove of Narberth offer a relaxed dining experience overlooking a garden terrace. The light-filled space, with décor inspired by traditional Welsh crafts and textiles, is a lovely place to enjoy local produce. I ordered a fish cake to start (£15), crispy on the outside and rich and creamy inside, followed by goat’s curd and lemon ravioli served with peas and oyster mushrooms for mains (£28), which was delicious (grovenarberth.co.uk/artisan).
TAKE A TOUR
I’m a big fan of guided tours run by people who live in the area, and Grove offers bespoke local trips through VIP Wales (vipwales.co.uk). Husband and wife Ewan and Laura picked up our small group from the hotel in their comfortable minibus, and we headed to one of Pembrokeshire’s lesser-known but extraordinary landmarks. Pentre Ifan is even older than Stonehenge, yet this megalithic structure is free to walk around and unencumbered by the trappings of mass tourism.
After marvelling at these incredible balanced stones, we went on to pretty Cwm-yr-Eglwys, a serene beach featuring the remnants of St Brynach’s Church. From here, we headed up the coast path along Dinas Head, taking a look at Needle Rock, a sea stack that is home to bird colonies in the late spring.
Guided day tours by minibus cost around £500 for up to six people – the prices vary according to the trip. Bookings can be made through the
hotel (grovenarberth.co.uk/experiences-and-escapes).
WOVEN IN WALES
Tucked away in a wooded Pembrokeshire valley, Melin Tregwynt has been weaving Welsh wool since the 17th century. We head to the on-site café and grab a coffee and a bite of lunch in this sheltered spot. Here, visitors can watch the looms at work and browse the shop’s collection of distinctive traditional blankets. Historically, Welsh blanket patterns were woven with symbolic meaning – often marking family heritage or regional identity (melintregwynt.co.uk).
LEARN TO SURF
After lunch, the minibus continues to the sandy expanse of Newgale Beach. Here, the very patient Tom and Hamish from Outer Reef Surf School help us into wetsuits and give our small group a Beginner Surf Lesson. These two-hour sessions, priced at £40 per person, cover wave awareness and ocean safety, and foundational surfing techniques. Led by ISA-accredited instructors who are also qualified lifeguards, we confidently head into the water to try to gain some basic skills (outerreefsurfschool.com).
HOT AND COLD
There’s nothing like a wood-fired sauna to warm you up after a few hours in the sea, and Wildwater is ready and waiting, right on the beach. This cool, cosy mobile sauna travels around the coast of Pembrokeshire, offering sessions by the sea. After heating up inside, you’re encouraged to take a refreshing ocean dip to cool off again. The hot and cold sessions are invigorating and incredibly life-affirming – not to be missed. Wildwater costs £15 per person for 55 minutes (wildwatersauna.com).
Finally, the minibus takes us back to the hotel, and, having learnt so much about the area along the way, including several Welsh words, this really has been a fantastic experience.
FINE DINING
Recognised with four AA rosettes, Fernery, located within the hotel, is a destination restaurant for the whole of Wales and beyond. Led by quietly dedicated executive chef Douglas Balish, who has been at the helm since its opening in 2018, it uses the highest-quality produce from the on-site kitchen garden, local fishermen, farmers and vineyards. Offering tasting menus, available in five or seven courses (£120/£145), the dishes take you on a journey around the region, sharing the history of the produce and the land. Super-informative head sommelier Cathryn Bell curates wine pairings (from £75), and helps to craft a unique alcohol-free pairing (from £45), working collaboratively with Douglas to elevate this to a whole new level (ferneryrestaurant.co.uk).
TIME IN TENBY
Gorgeous Tenby, on the southern coast of Pembrokeshire, obviously deserves a feature in its own right, but here there’s only a little space for me to say how much I love this place. Enclosed by 13th-century walls, the town grew around a Norman castle whose stone ruins still crown the rocky headland above Castle Beach. The colourful houses that overlook the sea remind us that it was once a thriving Victorian holiday resort famed for its sea bathing, fresh air, and stunning sandy beaches, as it is still today. You can book boat trips and island tours at its bustling harbour, and the streets are lined with independent shops and cafés, and full of life.
WILDLIFE BY BOAT
We joined a RIB Trip with Tenby Boat Trips. The fast, open boat offered great views as we circled Caldey Island, just off the coast. We spotted Atlantic grey seals lounging on the rocks, and seabirds, including razorbills, cormorants and one solitary puffin on the water. Caldey has been home to monastic communities for over 1,500 years and is still inhabited by Cistercian monks today. Boat trips cost from £18 per person, and RIB trips are £30 per person (tenbyboattrips.co.uk).
SEAFOOD BY THE SEA
Lan y Môr Restaurant on Coppet Hall Beach in Saundersfoot has fantastic views of the sea. Head chef Gerwyn Jones sources local ingredients, including Câr-y-Môr lobster, line-caught fish from Albatross Fisheries, and oysters from Atlantic Edge Oysters. I loved its crispy cockles with chili salt and nori mayonnaise (£9), which are great for sharing, and enjoyed a generously sized half-lobster (£30), plucked from the sea that day (lanymorsaundersfoot.co.uk).
WHERE TO STAY IN PEMBROKESHIRE
coast stayed at Grove of Narberth, a country house hotel near the small town of Narberth. The site dates back to the 15th century, originally featuring a ‘tyˆ hir’ or longhouse owned by the Bailiff of Tenby. In the 1680s, Daniel Poyer constructed the main house, which has now been extensively restored. Room rates start from £260 per night. To book accommodation, call 01834 860915 or visit grovenarberth.co.uk.
HOW TO GET TO PEMBROKESHIRE
The nearest train station is Narberth, about two miles from the hotel. As it is a request stop on the West Wales Line, passengers should tell the conductor they wish to alight there. From here, it’s a 10-minute taxi ride to the hotel. For information on rail travel around Wales, go to tfw.wales.
For more inspiration for coastal weekend escapes, visit our travel section or pick up the latest copy of coast magazine.
