Rich in history and full of breathtaking architecture, Edinburgh offers a city break by the sea that has enormous appeal throughout the year. Editor-in-chief Alex Fisher explores.
Built on a volcanic plug formed over 300 million years ago, Edinburgh Castle still dominates the city’s skyline as it has done since 1103. Housing the Scottish crown jewels and Stone of Destiny, it remains Scotland’s top visitor attraction, with tourists travelling from around the world to experience the palpable and profound sense of history and struggle for power it represents.
A city of myths and legends, the extraordinary rise of the Harry Potter story has brought new visitors to its streets, seeking out the buildings and landscape that inspired resident J K Rowling as she wrote her novels here. Located just behind the castle, Victoria Street is rumoured to have inspired Diagon Alley, where the young Harry Potter bought his first wand.
But Edinburgh was not built around the castle alone, it is also home to Scotland’s largest enclosed deep-water port. A 20-minute tram ride takes you to The Port of Leith, where a galleon once brought a teenage and already widowed Mary Queen of Scots back from France in 1568, leading to the long and tumultuous conflict with her cousin, Elizabeth I.
Today, the historic port has become a foodie destination, having the highest concentration of Michelin stars per square metre in the UK outside of London – but it still retains a royal link, being home to the Royal Yacht Britannia, which attracts hundreds of thousands of visitors a year.
Coast lovers can also travel a couple of miles south to Portobello and enjoy the long stretches of sandy beaches and promenades that run all the way to the seal colony near Musselburgh.
A SPANISH SUPPER
The new Resident Hotel, where I am staying, is in the West End, so I’m surrounded by restaurants and cafes. I head to The Spanish Butcher, which is just 10-minute walk away. This lively eatery in North Castle Street serves the finest grades of Galician beef, premium Jamón ibérico and traditional Spanish and Mediterranean-inspired flavours, from squid and potato to Manchego truffle chips. The buzzy atmosphere and chic interiors mean it’s important to book ahead (0131 322 0525, spanishbutcher.com/Edinburgh).
A GUIDED TOUR
After breakfast in my room, where there is conveniently a mini-kitchen and a coffee machine along with a table with a great view of the city, I head off for a guided walking tour. When you only have a short time to get to know a city, I recommend taking one of these personal tours, run by locals who know the history of the area. Rather than visiting the better-known attractions, our small group heads out on the Hidden Treasures Tour. Within minutes we are in another world, walking around picturesque Dean Village, which sits on the Water of Leith. This enclave was once the industrial milling area of the city, but now the narrow, winding lanes and bridges feel a world apart from the grand city that surrounds it. From here you can follow the Water of Leith all the way through pretty Stockbridge and into the Port of Leith itself (localeyestours.co.uk).
KING OF THE CASTLE
In the afternoon I head in the opposite direction and stroll to Edinburgh Castle, arriving just as the One o’clock gun has been fired, a tradition which started back in 1861 to signal the time to the ships arriving at the Port of Leith. Bagpipes sound as I walk up the famous Royal Mile – originally named as it was the path monarchs took when travelling from Palace of Holyroodhouse to the castle – and I imagine the historic scenes that have played out here. I pass by The Witchery, the popular restaurant and hotel for lovers of all that is dark and magical, and I enjoy the stunning view across the city that the elevated position provides.
After a few hours viewing the Honours of Scotland, the oldest Crown jewels in Britain, and marvelling at the Great Hall, where grand banquets once took place, I head down to colourful Victoria Street, just behind the castle, which attracts visitors for an entirely different reason. Standard adult tickets to the castle start at £19.50, you can add extras, such as a guided tour or an afternoon tea, when you book (edinburghcastle.scot).
INSPIRATION FOR HARRY POTTER?
The phenomenon of the Harry Potter series, written by Edinburgh resident J. K. Rowling, has brought a whole new host of tourists to the city. Although the films were not made here, you can see how the history and architecture influenced the story and the styling. Victoria Street is said to be the inspiration behind Diagon Alley, and there you will find people queuing to enter what was once an old brush shop, rumoured to be the original Ollivanders Wand Shop. I recommend heading a little further down to La Barantine, a gorgeous French patisserie, to consider whether you think this is true or not. There are four of these cafes in the city, visit as many as you can (labarantine.com).
PUB SUPPER
If you like a pub atmosphere, but enjoy a cocktail and excellent food, head to nearby Voyage of Buck for dinner. Start with a rhubarb and ginger negroni or a peach and black walnut sour (£12), then venture into some gin-cured salmon served on the gastropub’s homemade soda bread (£13). Follow this with pan-fried cod and mussels served with oloroso sherry (£24). Booking a table in advance is recommended (0131 225 5748, thevoyageofbuckedinburgh.co.uk).
THE PORT OF LEITH
As well as being home to Michelin-starred restaurants, Leith is where the Royal Yacht Britannia is now permanently moored. With a new visitor centre opening this year, this regal vessel is well worth a visit. Take a peak around the surprisingly small double bed once occupied by Queen Elizabeth II and get an insight into her personal life and the things that are rumoured to have really made her happy. You can jump on a tram just below the castle for just £2, adult tickets to the floating royal residence are £20 (royalyachtbritannia.co.uk).
PORTOBELLO BY THE SEA
If you’re not planning on fine dining for your Sunday lunch, jump in a cab and head to the long, sandy beaches of Portobello, just 15 minutes down the coast. Here, you can enjoy a delicious shrimp bun or crab on fries overlooking stunning sea views. Famous for its fish finger sandwiches, Shrimp Wreck (shrimpwreck.co.uk) is open 12 noon to 7pm Wednesdays to Sundays and well worth a visit, with children’s meals for a fiver and adults’ for a tenner. Afterwards, take a walk to Musselburgh along the miles of promenade. Absolute heaven.
WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT A WEEKEND IN EDINBURGH
WHERE TO STAY IN EDINBURGH
Coast stayed at The Resident. Recently opened in November 2024 this glamorous but friendly hotel is perfectly positioned on the boundary of the West End and New Town for exploring the city on foot. The tram to the Port of Leith is a few minutes away and the reception staff will book cabs and advise on local attractions. Prices start at around £160 a night for a double and operate on a sliding scale according to demand. To book call 0131 202 2284 or visit residenthotels.com/edinburgh/.
HOW TO GET TO EDINBURGH
Edinburgh (Waverly Station) benefits from excellent transport links, with direct trains from across the UK including Kings Cross and Manchester. It is also possible to fly direct to Edinburgh Airport (edinburghairport.com). Like many UK cities, public transport around the city is excellent and it is not necessary or advised.
